By Esmée Zuiker
Within a circumference of some hundred meters from the AUC dorms, the Indischebuurt and Dapperbuurt host a rich variety of supermarkets. Over the years, however, these neighbourhoods have mostly witnessed the growing presence of corporate chains, while the small local supermarkets are often reported to be struggling. What roles in this new shopping landscape do these smaller players still get to fulfil? What constitutes diversity in grocery stores? And what does it provide students with? The Herring conducted interviews with local markets and sent out a student survey to find out.
Sitting behind the checkout on a quiet Thursday afternoon is Mohammed el Jouhri, who has owned the El Jawhara grocery store on Molukkenstraat (referred to as “the Moroccan store” by students) for around thirteen years.He explains he is originally from Amsterdam West but ended up in the Indischebuurt when he took over the shop from an old acquaintance. When asked what he likes about his job, he replies: “Getting to know people, I really enjoy having different nationalities in my shop.”
El Jouhri mentions his customer base reflects the diversity of the neighborhood, with many people passing by. Despite this, he states that the number of customers he welcomes in his shop used to be higher, and that, in particular, the number of student customers has decreased. He indicates that he still makes a profit, but with a smaller margin. According to el Jouhri, the competition from a growing Lidl and the arrival of the large Albert Hein (AH) at the end of the street, as well as Spar in Science Park, is to blame for this loss. Nevertheless, he stoically consoles that competition will always be around. “You can never predict what you will earn on a given day. That is your fate,” the owner comments.
Further down the street, outside on a bench and leaning against the concrete wall of Lidl, is Sem Ali, who has been the branch manager at Turker Supermarkt (“the Turkish store”) for around five years. Ali describes his role as keeping things in order and maintaining an overview so that everything runs smoothly. He explains he used to own a diner in Alkmaar and came into contact with this supermarket via the wholesaler. Like el Jouhri, the shop Ali works for also knows a diverse variety of customers, including students, though he specifies that around ninety percent of customers have a Mediterranean or Middle Eastern background. Still, what connects all of his customers is that they have to work with a small budget. “They are very price conscious. They might have ten euros and must see what to eat that day, see how to eat nicely,” Ali explains. He says that most of the people go to more than one store to purchase their groceries, minimizing the costs by buying each product at a place where it is the cheapest.
Looking at the developments over the years, Ali illustrates how, since the COVID-19 pandemic, many small business owners have been facing financial difficulties. Other than the aftermath of lockdown measures, he also observes the difficulty of competing with the discounts and promotions of big supermarket chains. He also believes that people, especially students, are shopping more and more online, a development which, he argues, causes the “original world to fade.” Despite these broader societal issues, Ali says that the Turker Supermarket is actually doing better than in the past years, describing how the shop is better organized and that people are content with its offerings.
To further analyze the indication of students’ shopping preferences, The Herring sent out a survey to the AUC student group chats with open-ended questions, asking people where they tend to shop and why. As expected of a student demographic, most of the 36 respondents indicate price as the decisive factor for their destination of grocery shopping. Assortment, distance, and quality were also often mentioned as important determinants. Almost all say that they do at least some of their groceries at AH and Lidl. “Lidl is cheap. AH is more expensive but has more variety and is logically divided,” explains respondent Asya Zelenska, first-year Social Sciences. And while this reasoning is shared by many, some, such as first-year Sciences major Valdir Sequeira, have additional ethical considerations. Sequeira says only to be willing to go to Lidl for the cheaper deals if “[they] fully condemn and boycott Israeli products and companies.”
Others, such as second-year Sciences major Derin Üreten, recommend alternatives to the supermarkets. Üreten highlights AUCanfarm’s vegetable basket initiative, saying that “even though it only happens every two weeks, it is nice to support the local farmers with good price offers.” Apart from these, other prominent grocery sources mentioned by students included the Dappermarkt, Ekoplaza, Vomarkt, and various Middle Eastern shops in the area.
Seconding the interviewees’ observation, students also specifically mention going to the Turkish and Moroccan shop in the Molukkenstraat. Concerning the former, one anonymous respondent writes that it offers “many foods from the earth that haven’t been touched much and don’t have chemicals on them.” Third-year Sciences Major Lulia Popovici especially recommends the Moroccan store, saying she feels like “a lot of students pass it without going in,” and that “they carry items you won’t find at Lidl or AH, and are comparable in price or sometimes cheaper.”
When asked what would have to change for them to rethink the locations of their grocery shopping, most respondents say that, again, price changes would be the main reason. However, several other factors were mentioned as well. If their income or wealth increased, some would be more likely to buy organic products, such as those at Ekoplaza, or shop at stores with a wider selection of products, such as AH. Having more time for grocery shopping, avoiding previous bad experiences with product quality, or aligning with the earlier-mentioned ethical or political preferences would also influence their choice. Finally, location and convenience, such as changes in distance to the supermarket, were also pointed out.
What becomes apparent from the survey is that, overall, respondents seem to take a pragmatic approach to grocery shopping, considering mostly practical aspects such as price, quality, and accessibility. The interviewees, on the other hand, appear to advocate for a more holistic way of shopping.
When asked what his supermarket has to offer over the corporate supermarkets, el Jouhri states it is about more than just the products you buy. He thinks students should also come to his store for the quality and prices, but especially for the service and contact. He points out that you don’t get a little chat at AH or Lidl, since it is all formal there, while in his store, you can have personal contact. “That is also my goal, to just have people leaving the store with a smile. We must think like this: We are all humans, right? We should respect each other and help each other out,” he states.
Asked the same question, Ali says that everyone who wants to eat fresh and tasty food, which doesn’t necessarily have to be “first class”, can buy it at his store for a reasonable price. He also says that this shop has more specific Mediterranean and Middle Eastern products. “Lidl might have a Middle Eastern month, but we have [the products] available throughout the year,” he explains. Like el Jouhri, Ali also indicates that the small size of the shop allows for more personal and flexible contact between people. As an example, he says that people can come by at the end of the day to put together a discounted package of food that is already a day old but still good to eat.
Concluding his message to students, Ali says: “I always say: looking is for free; you can come make a little round around the shop. See what we have to offer!”
Note: Both interviews with el Jouhri and Ali were conducted in Dutch and translated by Esmée Zuiker.
The Herring 